I used the following patterns:
Simplicity 9769 - for bloomers & corset
Butterick B3418 - most basic skirt pattern for skirt
I bought the following:
- Lace mitts from Hot Topic ~$6
- Purple and Pink vertically striped knee socks from Target - ~$6
- Black sheer 3/4 length sleeve shirt - Ross Dress-4-Less ~$10
- 10 yds. grey herringbone with burgundy and copper pinstripes (suspect it's a wool poly blend) ~$0.95 /yd
- Black duck cloth for inner layer of corset - used 40% off coupon
- Black cotton poly stretch cloth for lining and outer cover of corset - on sale
- Black Double Fold Bias Tape - 1/4" and 1/2" widths - on sale
- Charcoal Single Fold Bias - on sale
- Burgundy Double Fold Bias Tape - on sale
- Black/gold lace - I thought I had a coupon, but I didn't... ouch... ~2yd = $17 (ouch!)
- Black velvet & cording ribbon to be used as ready-made drawstring ~$4
- 1 wooden rolling pin - ~$6 (I guess I'll stop using old wine bottles to roll out my baking shells now)
- Red with metallic green stripe homespun on clearance from last holiday season I think ~$2 /yd
- 2 spools black lace ~$3 each
Starting with the simplicity pattern, I made the bloomers from the red/green homespun and black lace around the bottoms just for fun because I saw black/red striped bloomers in a publicity photo - I couldn't find black/red striped fabric for a reasonable price. I diverged from the pattern by sewing the crotch together because I want them mostly because I'm a klutz and can see a scenario in which my skirt ends up over my head accidentally. Let's not show off the goods....
Next I got to work on the skirt. The grey herringbone is not perfect for the movie skirt, but close-ish and as close as I could get for cheap. Also, I figured that if I make it understated, I could wear it to work, cause I love floor-length skirts & the fabric is very business-y. Now, because of this, I was very anal and matched each panel so that the pinstripes met in a chevron pattern at the seams, so it took a while. I put together the most basic skirt - with train because I am just like that and can't pass up a train because it means more fabric hanging off of me... (the problem of people constantly stepping on me be damned!). Then I did a fake hem to figure out where I wanted it to hang to. Next I randomly decided that 9.5" long would make a good ruffle. So I measured the circumference around where the ruffle would be tacked (based on the prelim. hem) and guessed that double would be a good length. I cut and sewed lengths of ruffle pieces together (because I had to cut across the fabric so as to get the stripes going the same direction as the rest of the skirt, generally up and down). Once again being anal, I matched the places where I seamed the ruffle bits together. I finished the top of the ruffle with a rolled hem and the bottom with burgundy Double Fold Bias tape... because home-girl don't hem! (and it seemed to be that way in the movie stills). Ok, so the base of the skirt was done.
Next, I cut out duplicates of the four back panels of the skirt to make a base for the detachable back/butt ruffles. After sewing the 4 panels together, I traced the top part and made a 6.5" long piece that was the same shape. I measured the bottom of this, doubled the length, and attached a ruffle to the bottom of that piece. Then I tacked the top of that piece to the four-panel base. Next, I measured across the four-panel piece at a location that would have a 1/2 to 3/4 inch overlap with the ruffle. (note: I measured & marked every couple of inches so that I could preserve the slight curve of the top of the skirt) I doubled it and made another 9.5" ruffle to go there. I love chalk. I marked everything with chalk. So, onward, down the panel until I had an entire panel of ruffles. When done, I tacked all the ruffles down at the outer edges, and finished the edges with burgundy bias again. Then I gathered the top to match the width of the 4 gathered panels on the skirt & attached a matching waist band piece... Finally.... I safety pinned the entire false panel onto the skirt, turning the edges under. (Note: this method came in handy because a gap between the pins served as a perfect arm-loop so I could keep the train out of the way while waltzing the other night - no, I didn't not plan that feature in advance.)
Next... I made the corset generally according to plan. I still have an S-load of bulk 1/4" poly boning from making Fully-boned 18th century stays last year and I still also have Heating Duct Zip Ties from Home Depot which I tend to cut down and use as front and back stays (found that on a costuming site last year as a good alternative to actual whale bone). The pattern said to A) make the corset out of one layer of fabric, B) use steel boning, and C) use a front closure. I disregarded all of that and decided to make an inner boned layer from Duck Cloth (cotton stretches too much, so does Twill and I'm not about to go ordering corset Coutil (<-ha! spell check just suggested coital instead!) online). Next I made a lining layer and a covering layer out of whatever black cloth was cheap (cotton poly stretch, it tuns out). The outer layer I decorated by covering the seams and boned areas with Charcoal single fold bias tape. When the three layers were made up, I stitched them together and finished the bottom with black Double Fold (1/4"), tried it on, and cut the top down by 2" so it came to under bust for me. Then I finished the top the same way. I wish I had grommetted it AFTER making the alteration because I wasn't quite precise, but live & learn. I stole the laces out of another black corset I own and was done with it. Note: it's you want to use size 00 grommets (far superior to the crap eyelets you can get at a fabric store), you will HAVE to get them online unless you live close to a miracle store.... I tried every fabric store, hardware store, marine store, etc that I could think of. I love this site for supplies. Corsetmaking.com They are FAST and nice to deal with... Also, get a hole punch for eyelets that looks like a pair of pliers (usually sold as an eyelet setting kit at Walmart or fabric stores), throw out the eyelets that come with then, and then buy a hammer-based grommet setter... throw out the hole punch that comes with it (trust me, I've done a goodly bit of grommets, punch the fabric with a tool and then set them with the hammer die. Soooo much easier!)
So, lastly, the shirt... I took a ready made sheer black shirt from Ross, cut the neckline down into the appropriate shape, bound the edge with 1/2" Black bias tape, gathered the 2 yds of lace, sewed the lace and the velvet chord ribbon on top of the bias (being careful to only catch the chord edging and not the velvet in the seam so that the velvet ribbon could be pulled through and act as a drawstring...) and voila!
In the end, the hair was pretty easy. If I'm not careful, it's a semi-fro anyway, so I used one of those zig-zag headbands to pull it back to the right place, teased it up a good bit, spritzed it with water so that I got a bit of curl into it, teased some more, arranged, fluffed, sprayed mercilessly with Aquanet - the god of hairdos that ain't going anywhere - sprayed with some black hairspray to darken my tresses, and then more Aquanet. More puffing and arranging and I have a Mrs. Lovett Fro that is all mine. no wigs here.
Lastly, if you costume from time to time, let me recommend Graftobian creme makeup.... it comes in various colors, I have a pot of white. it goes on and comes off like normal foundation. It wears and feels like a good foundation. I hate that Grease-paint crap you can get at K-mart or Walmart. Graftobian is $$$ but well worth it. The thing I really like is that it goes on and stays on and can go on thin for a pale complexion or can go on thick if you really need to be WHITE. Good stuff.
So that's the process.
As usual, there is some part of every sewing project that I just don't finish. Usually it's the hem because I hate hemming and I'd rather use duct tape. This year, I've started making things in such a way that I don't have to hem at all. Yay! So on this project it is the skirt... I have not sewn a button and made a button hole to close the skirt. Nor am I likely to ever since I've been wearing it around for a month without a button. My dirty little secret... m-kay....? : )
Finally I leave you with this, which amused me greatly:
Wonderful ad from the end of the Lux Radio Theater Production of The Canterville Ghost (1945):
Male Narrator: "Patty didn't forget what she had in mind, but how could she tell Kaye what she was REALLY thinking?"
Patty: "Kaye's cute enough to get any man she wants. If only she were as sweet and fresh as she looks... but you just can't tell even your best friend that she's careless about daintiness. If I could only give her a hint about Lux-ing underthings after every wearing... Lux-ing her dresses and blouses often... If I could tell her how fresh & sweet it leaves 'em. And then she wouldn't risk offending! She'd have all the fun she deserves."
Hahaha! Does anyone know if they still sell Lux? I have to see if I can improve the daintiness of this blouse which still smelled in the pits after getting it back from the dry cleaners... I'm suspecting they don't clean half this stuff.
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